Moveable Feasts: Macaroons
October 7, 2009 | Laura Carroll
Stepping into a French bakery, affectionately known as the pâtisserie, is a lot like stepping into my childhood fantasy – colors, smiles, and baked goods. When I push open a storefront door into such a dazzling treasure trove of sweets – lined up in delicate rows that only consumption can disarray – I fall under a silly spell, happily admitting that there’s no problem too large for sugar to solve. In fact, it is my personal belief that any disagreement should be disputed in this setting. How can one stay mad when standing amongst a background of, par exemple, macaroons – cultural confections that resemble mini, pastel-colored hamburgers. Adorable, non?
I don’t know if it’s me (in that sort of “I’ve get a new car and now everyone’s driving it” way), but it seems that macaroons are beginning to catch on here in the States. (sugar, unlike Bensimons, never gets lost in translation).
Not to be confused with coconut macaroons, French macaroons are light and crunchy with a sweet filling that usually consists of jam or cream. They’re quite small and, gone in about two bites, will leave you wanting another (perhaps including French Women Don’t Get Fat in your collection of travel books will help you avoid falling into this caloric trap.)
With various flavors and colors, they are immensely satisfying, and I’d venture to guess there’s a macaroon for every taste. Make them for your next party, girl’s night (I think the description denotes a certain femininity), or as a decadent treat for yourself – making sure to keep a pretty little lock on the cookie jar.
To make Raspberry Chocolate Macaroons:
For macaroons
6 oz sliced blanched almonds (or 2 cups unslivered)
1 1/2 cups confectioners sugar
3 large egg whites
3/4 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
Red or pink food coloring
For chocolate raspberry ganache
3 oz fine-quality bittersweet chocolate (60 to 64% cacao), finely chopped
1/3 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened
1/16 teaspoon raspberry extract (or about 5 oz. raspberry jam)
Special equipment:
Parchment paper
1 gallon-size and sealable plastic bag (not pleated)
Make the macaroons:
Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
Pulse almonds with 1/2 cup confectioners sugar in a food processor until very finely ground, 2 to 3 minutes, then transfer to a bowl. Sift in remaining cup confectioners sugar, stirring to combine.
Beat egg whites with salt in another bowl with an electric mixer at medium speed until they just hold soft peaks. Add granulated sugar, a little at a time, beating, then increase speed to high and continue to beat until whites just hold stiff, glossy peaks. Add drops of food coloring to reach desired shade and mix at low speed until evenly combined. Stir almond mixture into meringue with a rubber spatula until completely incorporated. (Meringue will deflate.)
Spoon batter into bag, pressing out excess air, and snip off 1 corner of plastic bag to create a 1/4-inch opening. Twist bag firmly just above batter, then pipe peaked mounds of batter (the size of a chocolate kiss) onto lined sheets about 1 1/2 inches apart. Let cookies stand, uncovered, at room temperature until tops are no longer sticky and a light crust forms, 20 to 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, put oven racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat oven to 300°F.
Bake cookies, switching position of sheets halfway through baking, until crisp and edges are just slightly darker, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool completely on sheets on racks, about 30 minutes.
Make the ganache while the macaroons bake:
Melt chocolate with cream in a metal bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water or in top of a double boiler, stirring until smooth. (Bowl should not touch water.) Remove bowl from heat, then add butter and raspberry extract, stirring until butter is melted. Let stand at room temperature until cooled completely and slightly thickened.
Assemble cookies:
Carefully peel cookies from parchment (they will be fragile). Sandwich a thin layer of ganache (about 1/2 teaspoon) between flat sides of cookies.
Recipe courtesy of epicurious.com. Photo by Kristen Hohenadel
