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Le Marais: A Paris Favorite

La Belle Hortense, my favorite bar found in charming Le Marais

I love many a Paris district, but none so much as le Marais, situated cozily in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements.

I say cozily because the narrow and windy cobblestone streets act as a sheltered labyrinth away from the more fast-paced hustle and bustle of Paris’s many wide boulevards. The district, which was predominately Jewish (with some Chinese) up to the 80’s, has become a sort of charming haven for the gay and artist communities. The pockets of the aforementioned cultures remain, though, creating an atmospheric mash-up entirely unique to the area.

While living in Paris, I spent most of my time in le Marais – despite the not-so-short distance from our dorms at Cité Universitaire, my friends and I always seemed to end up there.

An afternoon in le Marais was usually set in motion by an in-class drawing of falafel, passed from desk to desk. This drawing signaled the near-daily craving for one of the areas several falafel restaurants, best eaten on the street and followed by a creamy cup of gelato with fresh whipped cream.

Happy and dizzy off the delicious eats, we’d spend the day roaming the various galleries until the sun began to set over the city, upon which we’d retire to our favorite, dimly-lit bar. It always seemed that, despite those staples, each wandering through le Marais was a different experience. Be it a different forecast casting its own shadows on the street, a new shop window to peer into or gallery to browse, or just a different set of company, le Marais never got old.

Here are a few of my le Marais favorites:

For eating: Despite L’as du Falafel’s popularity – due largely to the fact that it’s a favorite of Lenny Kravitz (who said that man knew anything about falafel?) – my favorite falafel joint is Mi-Va-Mi. The falafel patties are light and crisp and the vegetables are fresh and tangy once smothered with tahini and a spicy sort of tomato chutney that I’ve never tasted anywhere but. For the student traveler, these things are a dream come true. Not only are they delicious and (relatively) healthy, they are dirt cheap – about 6 euro for a very full pita.

Mi-Va-Mi, 27 rue des Ecouffes, 4th Arrondissement; 01 42 71 53 72

For desert: You are likely to see sticky-lipped tourists walking around with gelato cones resembling roses, but don’t be fooled. While the popular chain Amorino (maker of said sweet flowers) is taking over much of Paris, the best gelato is found at Pozetto, a local Italian establishment, where your gelato can be taken from the street-front window or enjoyed in the quaint interior with a cup of espresso. My favorite flavor is zabaione – a custard-like, cinnamon-infused number – but other contenders include the pistachio du roi de Sicile and the cioccolato fondente.

Pozzetto, 39 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 4th Arrondissement; 01 42 77 08 64

For sights: The Picasso Museum is probably the most well-recognized art spot in le Marais, but it would behoove any art lover to meander the streets, stopping at the galleries that feature international contemporary artists. There are many worthwhile collections.

For drinks: When the sun goes down (or even before it does if you so choose) head to La Belle Hortense - my favorite bar not just in Paris but anywhere. Here you will find the perfect ambiance in which to end your day in le Marais – walls glowing with candle labre and lined with books on wooden shelves. In the back is a sitting area where exhibitions are held, including some by the bar’s tender, Nikolai Saoulski.

La Belle Hortense, 31 rue Vielle du Temple, 4th Arrondissement; 01 48 04 74 60

Whatever favorites you find in le Marais, be sure to spend some time there.