Outside in Marseille
November 4, 2009 | Laura CarrollThere are enough places in just the city center of Marseille to keep you entertained for two consecutive days, but if you’re like me, there’s only so much you can read about the history of different religious monuments. It seems that sunny weather is trademark of Marseille (70’s and sunny even at the end of October), but what good is such nice weather if you’re stuck inside? For those who get the itch for the outdoors, a few places just a quick bus ride away will soothe the ache.
From what I’ve experienced with bus systems, Marseille’s is definitely near the top. Although there is limited seating and you may get stuck crammed up against a woman with a crying baby, it has the most straightforward map of different interconnecting routes (marked by different colors). Even a foreigner can understand it. The buses are almost always on time as well, and the fares are very fair (pun intended), just 10.50 Euro for a 3 day unlimited bus and metro pass. Walking has its own advantages if you’re not a fan of public transportation, as nearly each block has something new and interesting to offer, but be warned: it’s all hills.
Flying into Marseille, it’s hard to miss the enormous mountains and cliffs jutting out into the sea. Adventurers of all ages and levels of hiking experience should take the opportunity to see these mountains up close. Just make sure you’ve got at least three hours to spare. Once you’re dressed in the appropriate gear, take the number 19 bus from Metro Castellan to the last stop on the line, and then take the number 20 bus the rest of the way. You may not know where you’re going, but you’ll know when you get there.
Callanque de Callelongue. The bus stops about fifty meters from the foot of one of the mountains, and it’s all walking from there. A singular rough map at the base offers a couple paths. One of the paths winds around the mountain very near to the sea, allowing the opportunity for those brave enough to jump in the water. There is no beach attached to these mountains, so jumping is really the only option. The other path shoots straight up into the mountains, heading farther and farther up and in that you start to wonder whether the path will lead back around or you’ll have to just go back the way you came. I’d warn against forging your own path, however, unless the path is clear.
Assuming you’re feeling tired, hot, and sweaty from a day of hiking, en route on the 19 bus back to Metro Castellan is the Plage du Prado (Prado Beach). What’s striking about the beach is that it is completely artificial, created with the gravel excavated during the creation of Marseille’s subway system, but what’s more striking is the statue (replica) of Michelangelo’s “David” in the middle of the street just off the beach. If you’re more a fan of real sand, Catellan is decent as well. Like many beaches in the south of France, it’s clothing optional, and suffice it to say that such freedom does not discriminate.
The city centre might be full of things that are must-see, but Prado and Callelongue are definitely must-do. The craving for the outdoors is quickly satisfied with tired muscles, empty water bottles, and beautiful panoramic views, but don’t be surprised if the itch soon returns.



have fun just not too much.
Just remember, Ben, that being stuck inside in Marseilles beats looking out the window on 195 State St. in Springfield–at 70 or 50 or 20. Sort of like being Stuck Inside of Mobile (With the Memphis Blues Again). Love the site. Josh
With the gorgeous foliage falling here in anticipation of winter, accompanied by my spirits for the very same reason, I’m ready to ship out, and from what you describe, Marseilles sounds like The place to ship out to. Thanks for this, Ben.
Actually, 195 State view is better than 95 State but not as good as Marseilles! Nice article
Oui, je suis d’accord! Marseilles est formidable! Et comme Jane, j’ai envie d’y voyager!!! Benjamin, tu est un bon journalist! Bravo et Encore!!
Oops. My apologies to all. Just saw the spelling error in my comment post. My High School French Teacher would NOT be proud;-)