studentsineurope

Alghero: Sardinia’s Little Barcelona

Alghero is surrounded by the sea. You hear it everywhere, crashing against the fortifications of the little port city. The city walls stretch along the waterfront, punctuated by piazzas and mismatched towers. You can walk along the walls for hours, enjoying the sight of the blue water and the black rocks below you. Head south out of the city center and the walls take you past several nightclubs. Head north and you’ll pass the harbor, where you can take a left toward the lovely public beach and a string of reasonable but undistinguished hotels.

Alghero owes its success to the arrival of Catalan colonists in the medieval period, and the city remembers its heritage. The street signs in the city center are written in Italian and Catalan and the city is know affectionately as “Barcelonetta” or Little Barcelona. Alghero’s architecture, its cuisine, and its occasional Catalan flag are a testament to its history. Take the time to explore Alghero’s historic towers and monuments and its many churches with their beautiful patterned roofs to get the full affect.

You may not have a choice about taking your time – it’s easy to get turned around. Alghero’s city center is a rabbit-warren that juxtaposes the old with the new. The narrow cobblestone streets twist under  lines of laundry and wrought-iron balconies. In the rows of little shops on either side you’ll find bakeries selling island specialties and windows full of traditional Sardinian jewelry and sturdy pocket knives next to contemporary art galleries and bizarre silk-screened t-shirts sure to appeal to the hipster in you. There are underground restaurants serving unusual local pastas like malloreddus (basically gnocchi without the filling) and culurgiones (big pasta dumplings stuffed with potatoes and mint), pizzerias that look out over the harbor, chic bars, and an Irish pub.

Alghero is a hotspot for the young and fashionable and it comes alive at night, especially in the summer. Street vendors set up their stalls all along the waterfront, selling everything from traditional Sardinian goods to North African imports. Don’t miss the opportunity to buy some torrone, a traditional candy made with honey and almonds, from a street stall – watching them hack it to pieces for you with a huge cleaver is almost as good as eating it. Bring some cute club wear and expect to stay out late – Italian discos often don’t get going until three in the morning. And don’t leave without doing at least one shot of mirto, the Sardinian answer to limoncello. It’s quite strong and flavored with the berries of a native shrub. If you don’t like sweet alcohols, try filu ferru instead – just not too much of it.

If you can swing it, stay in the Hotel San Francesco in the city center instead. It’s about 20 euros a night more expensive than the hotels on the strip, but it’s located in the cloisters of a medieval monastery and the sight of the swallows darting about while you eat your morning cornetto is worth it. You’ll also be much closer to the action at night, which will be worth it later when you’re stumbling home from the bars. And plan to stay for a few days. There’s plenty to see, free beaches, and the nightlife will definitely keep you entertained.