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48 Hours in Munich (at Christmastime)

Munich's Rathaus, illuminated.

Forty-eight hours, I admit, is a pathetic amount of time to spend in any city – particularly Munich.

Throw in the fact that it’s Christmastime and you’ve got a real tragedy. The season entails not only far more things to see, do, eat, drink and buy but also far more people, making it twice the challenge to work your way through the city, dine in its restaurants, ride its immaculate train system…you get the idea.

For flight reasons, Munich was the starting and ending point for a trip elsewhere. It seemed a sin, though, to miss it entirely, and so I gave myself the weekend before takeoff to get a tiny taste of this Bavarian beauty.

While Berlin, ever-growing in popularity, reminds you of what’s around the corner,  Munich reminds you of where you are. It’s Europe – in its architecture, pace and people and, while I wouldn’t advise taking it on like I did, here are a few ways to spend forty-eight fleeting hours.

True to form, I put Munich’s art at the top of my list. A work of art in itself, the Pinakothek der Moderne is Germany’s largest modern art museum, encompassing four collections. Whether you’re into Beuys or Beetles, Kiefer or couches, you’re covered under the Moderne’s curvaceous, dome-like interior.

Those with the most classical of appetites, on the other hand, should head to the Alte Pinakothek, while the Neue Pinakothek displays impressionism, romanticism and the like. And, of course, a glance at the Gallery Guide will lead you to the true contemporaries.

Though the grass may be a little crunchy in December, Munich’s Englischer Garten (English Garden) makes for a great place to relax, and you won’t have to walk too far to find it – the grounds trump both Central and Hyde Park in size. Japanese, Greek and Chinese architecture are sprinkled throughout the park, as well as a beer garden (naturally). Flowing through the park is the Eisbach, where dry suit-clad surfers patiently wait to ride one artificial wave.

Whether you plan to or not, you’re likely to find yourself in one of Munich’s many Christmas markets. I ended up in Marienplatz, where stalls upon stalls of vendors sold everything from hand-stitched angels to roasted chestnuts and of course, mulled wine. It was crowded and a little too much, but the Christmas spirit was contagious and – making my way through the blurred golden lights and bundled crowds on the night before my Christmas eve-day flight back to Florida – I was glad to be there.

Photo: John H. Ostdick, Natural Traveler