Aperitivo: Italian for Happy Hour

December 30, 2009 | Sara Harding
Come in out of the Italian winter and enjoy aperitivo!

Come in out of the Italian winter and enjoy aperitivo!

The winter weather never gets really inclement in Italy. Sure, it rains in the winter. Sometimes it even rains a lot, like last winter when incessant downpours combined with snow-melt in the Italian Alps created an impressive – and destructive – Tiber flood. But compared to the winter disasters of northern Europe, Italy stays downright pleasant.

Even so, after you spend a day outside enjoying the nice winter weather, you’ll be looking for a place to sit down. Night still comes early despite the 60 degree days, so let the dusk chase you indoors for one of my favorite Italian traditions: aperitivo. Aperitivo is basically happy hour, but like many things in Italy, it’s so much cooler than the American version. Even tiny bars in rural villages celebrate aperitivo with a few bowls of chips, peanuts, and pretzels on the counter top, free for the taking. And if you’re in a big city, you’ll find that the swankier bars can put out quite a spread. Look for wine bars in particular; they tend to have whole counters devoted to bruschetta, olives, skewers of marinated chicken, cheeses, mini sandwiches, and grissini (the crispy little breadsticks you probably get at your favorite Italian restaurant back home). The best part about aperitivo is that the food is often free. If there is a charge, it’s usually minimal, especially compared to what you’d pay for the food at a restaurant.

My favorite aperitivo in Italy is held at a wonderful wine bar in Rome called ‘Gusto. ‘Gusto is located near the Tiber just behind the Ara Pacis museum. In addition to the wine bar, which features a wonderful selection of wines from all over Italy and beyond, ‘Gusto runs a pizzeria, several restaurants, and a fabulous cooking store, all in the same block. ‘Gusto is stylish and upscale but not too expensive, especially if you get a glass of wine during aperitivo, when the price of the wine includes all the tasty snacks. If you want brag rights when you return home, I suggest trying a canonnau. Canonnau is a red wine from Sardinia that few people in America have even heard of – it’s full-bodied, delicious, and sure to impress people when you talk it up at cocktail parties (though maybe not at keggers).

Even if you find an aperitivo you love – and I know how nice it is to have a “local” bar when you’re far from home – don’t neglect to venture out and try a few different places. Each aperitivo offers its own special variety of snacks and atmosphere and it’s worth trying them all. Aperitivo starts at different times in different bars, so check the menu or signs on the door for indications of when the fun begins. If you don’t see anything posted, between five and six o’clock is a good bet. Also, most bars hold aperitivo on a daily basis, so if you’re lucky enough to be studying abroad in Italy, take full advantage of the opportunities this presents. Aperitivo is the perfect way to relax with your friends, meet locals, and enjoy the rich culinary tradition of Italy.

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