Amsterdam's popular Mac Bikes stand out in a crowd

Last week, I wrote about the biking paradise that is Amsterdam and how to get the most out of your experience in the city on two wheels (see: Bicycle Mania in Amsterdam).

Because of the fantastic bike lanes everywhere, Amsterdam is a relatively safe city to bike in, if you know what you’re doing.  But as a newcomer, you might be slightly overwhelmed when you see all the moving vehicles zipping around, especially if you haven’t ridden a bike for a while.

Here are a few tips on how to survive your bike ride in Amsterdam (trust me, you’ll have fun!!):

• Always, always lock your bike!  Use a front and a back lock (thieves will take your back tire if you’re not careful), and always lock it to something solid.  Nearly 60% of bikes in Amsterdam are stolen at one point or another, and you don’t want to have to deal with a stolen rental bike on your trip.
• Watch out for tram tracks. They’re the perfect width for your bike tire to get stuck in, sending you flying over the handlebars.  Approaching them at an angle will keep you pain-free.
• Follow the traffic laws.  While more experienced bikers can get away with running red lights and whatnot, police will spot flustered tourists and ticket them for any traffic violations.
• Be aware of the road. Bikes, trams, cars and Vespas will try to hit you at all times.  But if you stay at a constant speed, keep to the right side of the bike path and use your bell whenever you want to pass someone, you should make it out of the city injury-free.
• Never forget where you left your bike!  There are thousands and thousands of bikes in the city so if you forget where you put it, its unlikely you’ll ever see it again.  Write it down if you have to, especially if you’re headed for a big night out.

Not sure where to rent a bike when you’re there?  There are several rental companies in town, but here are some of the best-regarded (and cheapest) ones:

Mac Bike Rental

Mac Bike is one of the largest bike rental companies in town, and I would highly recommend them to anyone visiting Amsterdam.  Their bikes are sturdy, come with a durable lock, and their bright red color stands out in a crowd.  With five locations in the center of Amsterdam they’re convenient, and the staff is actually friendly (not always true in Amsterdam).  A standard Dutch bike won’t set you back much – prices start at €8.50 for 24 hours, €6.50 per day for a two-day rental, and €4.25 a day for a seven-day rental.

StarBikes Rentals

If you’re looking to blend in with the locals then go with StarBikes, whose black granny-style bikes won’t immediately give you up as a tourist.  Located right off of Central Station, these bikes also come with a lock and start at €5 for four hours or €9 for 24 hours.  Mentioned by The New York Times as a shop you’ll keep coming back to again and again, StarBikes will offer you advice on bike routes and will even pack you a tapas picnic tailored to your dietary needs if you give them advance notice.  StarBikes also has a café loved by tourists and locals alike, and claims to offer the cheapest espresso in town (€1!).

Mike’s Bike Rental

Mike’s Bike Tours are a popular way to see Amsterdam, and the tour company also rents bikes at competitive rates.  Located just off the busy Leidsestraat, Mike’s is easy to find and will cost you €5 for ½ day, €7 for one day and €10 for 24 hours.  Worried about something happening to your bike while you’re there?  Get Mike’s bike insurance for only €3 more a day.

For a fun, leisurely bike tour of the city, check out this handy itinerary suggestion (the route as planned will take you one to two hours).

Q: So, of all your work-related journeys, are there any particular experiences that stand out?

From a 2009 Snow or Sand trip to Morocco.

My experience in Morocco really changed my view.  When we first tried to do Morocco, I said “hold on, I heard that its dangerous,” and that was my initial reaction; it was a very American reaction.  It’s a strange culture to an American who’s never spent time in an Arab or Muslim country.

After visiting I realized how friendly the people are and how incredibly hospitable the culture is – it  totally changed my opinion.  [It's] hospitality in its purest sense, so sending guests down there has become a true mission for me.  It changes the way the guests view the world.

When I say Air Arabia, I see guests of ours shudder at the thought of getting on a plane that says “Air Arabia.”  And then they get down there and they experience the culture of Morocco as delivered by Simo and Khalid, our local experts down there, and it blows their mind.

On one of our trips, we were invited by our driver to his family’s house for a festival.  I kept seeing sheeps being carted around, and he explained it was part of a festival that culminates with the ritual slaughter of the sheep.  The next day we were getting ready to drive through the High Atlas mountains, through the dunes, and the driver said, “It has been three years since I’ve been to this festival,” and he invited all the students to come.  It would be like my family inviting 50 people to Thanksgiving and slaughtering the turkey in the living room.  It was just incredible. We sat in their living room which was open to the sky and slaughtered the sheep while we drank tea and ate cookies.

When you escape your comfort zone, that’s where true learning begins.  If you just travel around with a cadre of Americans, you’re not going to put yourself out there.  You’re not going to put yourself in situations that result in this type of experience.

Q. What’s the process for finding all these guides in different cities?

We call them local experts.  When I think of guide it harkens back to memories of a white flag and umbrella and someone speaking into a microphone saying “on the right is the cathedral, built in 1741…”  Most are ex-pats from the States or they live in their country.  The profile we look for is someone who’s educated, who has at least a B.A., and a lot of them have studied journalism and English literature.  Of course they need to be friendly and passionate about where they live.  We challenge our applicants to write a story about a travel experience that changed their life, write a personal statement about why travel is important, and how they would help the guest engage the local culture.  All of them speak foreign languages and a lot of them speak many languages.  We hire people that have their fingers on the pulse of the city.

Q. I know that part of Snow and Sand’s mission is countering negative stereotypes of Americans.  Can you talk about that?

What I saw when I started delving into the industry was unfortunate.  A lot of people were traveling in a way that was fulfilling this negative stereotype.  It’s really prevalent in university towns around Europe where the American is viewed as a loud, obnoxious drunk, like “we’re here, were gonna take whatever we can get and not give anything back.”  In Florence I’d see a student or young traveler stumbling around and being loud and obnoxious.  There’s a better way to behave.

We don’t encourage that kind of behavior.  Our local experts tell them ‘this is the best way to keep a low profile in the city,’ and that way you’re granted accses to the local culture.  We strive to knock down that stereotype because I don’t think Americans are loud and drunk and terrible.  A small minority creates this stereotype.  By teaching people the value of responsible behavior, they experience more of the culture and act as diplomats.  That can only help in an increasingly inter-connected world.

The well-spoken, well-traveled, and well-connected succeed.  This day and age — when the world is smaller and it’s easier to get abroad — if you act irresponsibly and don’t really cast your country in a positive light, it’s gonna be more difficult.

Q: What has been the biggest challenge?  Or bump along the road?

Our biggest challenge has been introducing a product to a market that hasn’t really seen it quite yet.  We’re selling an experience, as delivered by a local expert in a city.  Most people don’t immediately see the value of having someone there to be a friend and customize the experience for them.  The budget-conscious traveler doesn’t understand that having that person with them will save them money, will enrich their experience and engage them in their culture.  The demand is there but it’s hard to describe our message.

Our biggest bump along the road?  A series of little bumps here and there.  The essence of entrepreneurship is risk and reward, so getting a company started as a group of young guys and working in an international environment -has a host of challenges: language barriers, differences in the way different cultures do business.  There’s a lot of ups and downs, the ups are incredible and the downs are frightening but its all a part of starting a new business.

You may have had it in some third-generation Greek restaurant in Astoria or second-rate vegetarian cafe. Don’t be fooled. Fresh, street-side falafel is of a different caliber: crisp and juicy balls of chickpeas (and sometimes fava beans) wrapped in a warm pita, covered with pickled and marinated vegetables, splashed with tahini and — sometimes — a sort of tomato chutney.

And the best part of falafel, if you’re traveling on a student budget, is its worth. At about €6 (sometimes less depending on the applied craftsmanship), falafel definitely gives you bang for your buck. Aside from the fact that chickpeas are a source of protein, the sheer volume of ingredients packed into that carb-laden pita is likely to fill you up for the entire day. The bulk also acts as hangover prevention — another excuse to integrate this delicious treat into your quotidian fare.

photo: The New York Times, taken at le Marais’s Mi-Va-Mi

Day 3: The Fun Stuff

You’re about ready to take off, and that’s something to celebrate! One of my favorite things to do is to make and listen to a travel playlist – mine is called King of the Road Tons of great songs have been written about traveling, and they’re the perfect accompaniment to your preparations. Of course, Roger Miller’s classic King of the Road tops my list, but I also recommend I’ve Been Everywhere by Johnny Cash, Rusted Root’s Send Me On My Way, and U2’s Where The Streets Have No Name.

Day 2: This Is Really Happening

If you’re like me, you’ll spend all of Day 2 packing and repacking your bag. I do this out of nervous excitement but it has a useful side as well. This is when I really cut down. This time around, I eliminated a pair of jeans, a tank top, a t-shirt, a jacket, some books, and a couple of other little things. Due to the new “charge for a second checked bag” that the airlines are doing, I’m going away for five months in one checked bag, one carry-on, and a “personal item” (a purse, laptop bag, small backpack, etc.). True, all the bags are densely packed and heavier than I’d like, but they’re manageable and I’m pretty proud of my packing prowess. Day 2 is what got me down to my self-imposed limit.

Day 1: Relax

If you’ve done it right, your last day home should be a breeze. No last-minute packing or shopping, all your travel documents in order, and all your loose ends neatly tied. The best thing to do is go out with your friends and enjoy the day. Before you go to bed, double check that your passport, credit cards or cash, and flight info are all in your carry-on and be sure to charge your cell – if anything goes wrong at the airport, you’ll want to be able to make calls.

Day 0: Off You Go!

My only recommendation for your last morning in America is: if you have time, go out for a big American breakfast. It’s croissants, scones, or cornetti from now on!

It’s pretty fun.

And now, as part of the site’s contest, adding your own luminous location could win you some pretty great prizes (like the iPod Touch that was given away yesterday or the MacBook Pro to be awarded on the 26th).

Whether you have a nightclub to describe (fuchsia, maybe?) or a Japanese tearoom (soft turquoise?), entering your favorite spots in a host of world cities automatically registers you as a participant in Momondo’s drawings. Clout and karma come into play too — those with higher ratings have a better chance of winning, while those who comment on and rate the submissions of others will be eligible for a smaller prize.

So turn your eating, drinking and lazy park days into a colorful cash cow, and check out the competition page for more details.

I love you. You know I do. I love your exuberant spirit, your optimism, and your can-do attitude. I love the way my European friends marvel at how much energy and ambition Americans have. I love the fact that I can buy a single cup of coffee and use the Wifi for three hours. I love getting prompt and friendly service. I love that fact that, although you don’t seem to think your citizens are entitled to universal healthcare, you do believe we are entitled to free refills.

But I confess, America, there are things I will not miss when I leave you. I hope you’ll forgive me, but…

I will not miss portions the size of my head. A cookie should not be big enough to substitute for lunch and not only do I not need, I don’t want enough pasta for three meals. If I take it home I’ll shove it in the back of the fridge and forget it until it grows mold. If I eat it I’ll feel mildly sick and go into a food coma. Really now, cut back on the portion sizes.

I will not miss drab clothing. Sorry GAP, but a plain t-shirt is a plain t-shirt even if it’s lime green, and the sweatshirt is a crime against style (I own five). Clearly I’m just as guilty as the next American, but I think it’s a relief to go somewhere where even the straight men out-dress me.

I will not miss the lack of public transportation. As a dedicated pedestrian, I feel loved and accepted by the European transportation system. In Europe, you really can get from point A to point B without a car. You can even get from point B to point Q. In America, you press your luck just trying to get around point A; forget about trying to leave it. And don’t get me started on American trains. Italian trains are more reliable than Amtrak.

I will not miss big box stores. Yes, I shop in them, but I love living without them! Shopping in Europe is fun and charming specifically because of the dozen specialty shops you duck in and out of while you try to track down everything on your grocery list. Efficiency is not the goal in life. You should write that down, America.

I will not miss pockets full of worthless change. If I’m going to carry half a pound of metal around with me, I’d like to be able to buy a beer with it. Dig through your pockets in America and you probably won’t have enough for a coffee. Try it in Europe and you can get a panino and a bottle of Moretti.

So you see, America, it isn’t that I don’t care about you. I promise I’ll come back. It’s just that right now I need some time away.

Love always,

Sara

Spring is finally here.  Well, almost – but it is starting to look like it outside.

Flowers are sprouting, the snow has finally melted, and temperatures are consistently in the 40s or above in most of Europe.

For those of you who have spent the winter in Europe — the coldest winter recorded in 30 years — this is probably a huge relief to you.  It sure is for me – I’m so sick of wearing my big, black puffy coat I’m tempted to throw it out (alas, I know I will need it next year).

This photo shows Rembrandtplein, the popular tourist square in Amsterdam, on the first day of the year actually sunny and warm enough to sit outside.  This was unthinkable even two weeks ago.  What a relief!

It may not be summer yet, but be patient – the days of sipping a drink at an outdoor café, laying in the park with a good book, and exploring the continent’s amazing beaches are almost here.  Just a little longer.

Don’t worry, travel is probably one of the only addictions that doesn’t require professional help. Still, it’s fun to guage whether or not your desire to explore goes beyond passion and into full on fiend-ing. Measure your travel-mania via 21 Signs You’re a Travel Addict.

Sort of like the middle-child between England and Ireland or Scotland, Wales really doesn’t get enough credit. The country is positively beautiful, which is why I was excited to see, on Europe a la Carte, a write-up on what to do in Mid-Wales’s Brecon Beacons National Park.

Something about Europe throws my dietary levelheadedness out the window, leaving me smoking copious amounts of cigarettes and regarding coffee as a viable foodstuff. And while last week I featured one of London’s tea joints, the city’s coffee scene recently entered the limelight. This article in The New York Times highlights the city’s underground coffee spots.

And speaking of coffee purchases (and others that could be curtailed in an effort to enhance your travel funds), Twenty-Something Travel lists 9 Little Ways to Sock Away Travel Money. So long takeaway, hello Europe!

Q: So, tell me how you came to start your own travel company.

Charles Stevenson, co-founder of a travel company that seeks to change how people explore the world.

The initial idea started with a series of ski trips.  I made some friends with some skiers when I was a freshman and we started going up to Canada every President’s Day weekend for these ski trips.  We’d rent a passenger van with 15 friends in Mont Tremblant in Quebec.  The culture is very different, it’s very French, and has this nice feel.  We were meeting a lot of amazing French people and just having an amazing weekend and we decided to make it a tradition.  Every year after this we loaded up a 15 passenger van and road-tripped it up.

Later, I was studying abroad in Perugia, Italy.  It was February and I was getting this itch, and I just really wanted to get up there and ski.  I tried to find a place to rent a 15 passenger van, and couldn’t find it, so spoke with my director and spoke with a guy who had access to a coach bus. I was like, “What am I gonna do with a coach bus, this thing holds like 50 people?”

We had this incredible trip. I ended up filling the bus with 50 of my closest new friends, skiing the alps and just really enjoying the culture.  We went to Cervinia, this little town up in the mountains near the Swiss border.    Everybody said “we want more” so that spring, I kind of got the itch again and wanted to do a trip to the islands, and we got a group together and went to the Italian island.  We got off the beaten path and had some adventures

As I got off the bus I was thinking, “this is something, this is too good to end” and held a little contest about whoever could come up with the best name for my new company.  After about 100 submissions I chose Snow or Sand.

I left Italy and still had this idea, with the help of a friend who became a business partner.  For whatever reason, it got put on the back burner, I graduated and got a job in hospitality, moved to LA, and worked there for two years.

After about two years I started to say I really wanted to get back to Italy.

We were catching up on old times and he was looking for his next project and had just sold his old company and said “how about that Snow and Sand thing?” and we struck a deal. He wrote a business plan, we raised some capital, and a month later he was flying out to Italy with a box of fliers and a marginal knowledge of the Italian language — that was January 2009.

Q: What distinguishes Snow and Sand from other travel companies?

Since then, we’ve realized a lot of things in the business and the industry.  The travel industry is focused on hotels and airfares and big monuments.  We looked at this and said “there’s something missing from this whole picture.”  We honed the company so we focused more on the experiences and the people.  The best way to see a city is with a close friend or family member who can showcase the city.  Adventure travel is our roots and we wanted to take that and build in experiential travel, focused on that and not just the logistics.

We’ve created a continental network that includes destinations across Europe and northern Africa.  In order to deliver on this idea we need to hire locals in these cities who can really deliver on it. We ‘ve found some amazing people who shared the passion for travel like ourselves; who understand the value of cross-cultural interaction and see the place as a local and not as a tourist.  And it’s been great for us.

Our plans do not end in Europe, we’ve developed something that we can bring almost everywhere.  We take groups to Morocco, and we’ve got plans to expand to Southeast Asia and the Middle East, Egypt and Israel, continental south and Central America.

Q: It was only a year ago that you started, and now Snow and Sand organizes tours in eight different countries.  Has the rapid growth of the company surprised you?

It didn’t surprise me because we’ve developed such a great team.  We’ve grown quickly but we’ve been pretty measured about it.  We do our research before expanding. Our team works really well together, and we’ve got something that nobody’s really seen much of before.  One thing we do that’s different is work closely with universities so they have a travel option for their students that is safe and responsible and fun.  We’ve aligned a lot of our philosophies with the universities we work closely with.  We wanted to meet many students and essentially change the way that they travel, get them to experience the culture and a new city, having fun and not closing their minds.

Q: Has running a travel business changed your own idea of what it means to travel?

I studied abroad in a small university town (Perugia, Italy) and when I was there, there weren’t really any student travel companies operating.  Most students traveled on their own so I didn’t really see what the other companies were up to.  I did a lot of traveling on my own with my buddies, and a lot of times we’d arrive in a city and didn’t know what to do.  We ended up spending a majority of our time in the touristy center – of Amsterdam, for example.  But Amsterdam is a beautiful, beautiful place to visit and if you don’t get away from the center you’ll never realize that.  You’ll never see the way the Dutch people see the world.  So I left fairly disappointed, not expecting to go back.

After traveling with Snow and Sand and getting locals involved, I returned to these cities and changed my entire viewpoint on how to travel.  A lot of these cities have tourist centers that have been commercialzed and catering to tourists.  You have to get off that trodden path and that’s what Snow and Sand is trying to do.

(In the second portion of the interview, Charles will share anecdotes and expound on the challenges of running a start-up business in a foreign land.)